Maker thoworth
MakerForum Replies Created
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I would probably do a French cleat. The cleat could be glued and nailed all the way along the top edge which would provide more support. This will result in the case standing out from the wall by the thickness of the cleat, so I would install another piece of wood along the bottom as well.
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What type of wood is your project piece? Are you going with or against the grain? That can make a huge difference.
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You mention both acrylic and epoxy in your title. Those are two very different things. Acrylic (like pen blanks) is a fairly soft plastic that cuts easily with HSS. A two-part epoxy used to fill cracks and inclusions can be quite hard. Yes, you can turn it using standard HSS, but it will dull the tools faster.
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Have you tried timesavers.com or milehiclocksupplies.com ?
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My single stage used to always clog when running the jointer or planer because they had straight blades. The “straw” produced would jam up at the intake. A two stage (garbage can) fixed the problem. My new machines have helical heads and those would probably do fine with a single stage because they create smaller chips.
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I recently got the Oneida Supercell. It has a crazy amount of suction and an alert to tell me when the bag is full. Only downside Is that it’s very loud.
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Nothing. To busy installing flooring in the new house. The miter and band saws are getting a workout though!
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I currently have the same setup with 1-1/4 of the bays being my shop. I have all of my large power tools on mobile bases (I found the HTC to work the best), and I use the Rockler Dust Rite system to connect my DC to whatever tool I’m using. It’s not ideal, but it works well. I also use hanging racks from the ceiling for storage.
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I use the ISOtunes hearing protection whenever I’m running a power tool in the shop. That said, I currently use my shop vac for the CNC. It’s also loud, but I would rather put the wear and tear on that instead of the expensive DC.
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Regarding rust removal, first remove any dirt, dust , or oil. Washing in dish soap works fine for this. Then I simply use a plastic bin and some strong white vinegar. Evap-o-rust works great too. Toss the parts in and let it set overnight. That’s typically long enough unless it’s really rusted. After that, use a wire wheel to clean away any remaining rust. Rinse off with water, but then immediately dry it and coat it with something like T-9 Boeshield or a rust protectant to prevent flash rusting.
For flattening, I apply adhesive sandpaper (100 grit) to my table saw table. Make sure the blade is removed. You only want to sand the sole. Reduce the grit until as smooth as you want. Flatness is more important than smoothness.
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Yup. I installed prebuilt cabinets (Gladiator) in the non-shop garage stalls to hold paint, finishes, car wash stuff, etc. I also installed hanging storage racks above the garage door in my shop, but i found those to be impractical unless it’s something I just want to store forever.
My biggest change came when I extended our unattached garden shed by 10 feet. I used that new space for just wood storage. That freed up an amazing amount of room.
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Hand plane resto is fun. I’ve done many. There are lots of YT videos on how to do it, but what specifically would you like to know?
The key things are: a flat sole, a sharp blade, and a tight chip breaker. Everything else is just there for show. 😀